--- title: "Cooktops and rangetops" description: "Fisher and Paykel cooktops and rangetops: forty-six machines and four different technologies under one word: seventeen induction cooktops, thirteen sealed…" url: "https://fisherpaykelmiami.support/appliances/cooktop/" date_modified: "2026-08-26" Appliance type: "Cooktops and rangetops" --- # Fisher & Paykel cooktops and rangetops ### Four technologies, one word Forty-six machines: **seventeen induction** including SmartZone models that bridge two zones into one, **thirteen sealed gas** cooktops in natural gas and LPG versions, **eleven professional rangetops**, **three electric** and **two teppanyaki** plates. Twenty-two are the Professional style and twenty are Minimal. ### Why rangetops are on this page A cooktop drops into the counter with cabinets or an oven underneath. A rangetop is the top half of a professional range with nothing under it — the same heavy grates, the same burners, the controls on a front panel — designed to sit above a wall oven or a bank of drawers. They are repaired identically. If you are not sure which you have: a rangetop has a raised back and front-panel controls; a cooktop is flush with the counter. ### What goes wrong - **Stiff dials**, the maker’s most-linked cooktop complaint, and a maintenance repair. - **Ignition on gas**: no spark, spark without flame, or a flame that will not hold at low. - **Induction zones cutting out**, which is usually cooling and installation rather than the coil. - **Touch controls not responding** — wet fingers, a lock, or the control itself. - **Cracked glass**, which on induction and radiant surfaces is a replacement rather than a repair, and which the maker treats as a safety matter: stop using the cooktop. - **Fan noise**, which on an induction machine is the cooling fan and is a sign worth listening to. ### What this maker does not publish for a cooktop A code table. Not one of the forty-six user guides carries a chapter of cooktop codes — the induction guides say the cooktop “displays an error code” and to give it to a technician, and stop there. The families above come from the maker’s support articles rather than its guides. Anyone offering you a full Fisher & Paykel cooktop code list is not reading it off the maker’s own paper. Induction · SmartZone · Gas · Rangetops · Teppanyaki · Electric · 12" · 24" · 30" · 36" · 48" Cooktop repair One induction zone cutting out while the rest keep going Ignitors clicking without the burner lighting Touch controls that stop responding, or dials that have become hard to turn Four technologies, one word Forty-six machines: seventeen induction including SmartZone models that bridge two zones into one, thirteen sealed gas cooktops in natural gas and LPG versions, eleven professional rangetops, three electric and two teppanyaki plates. Twenty-two are the Professional style and twenty are Minimal. Why rangetops are on this page A cooktop drops into the counter with cabinets or an oven underneath. A rangetop is the top half of a professional range with nothing under it — the same heavy grates, the same burners, the controls on a front panel — designed to sit above a wall oven or a bank of drawers. They are repaired identically. If you are not sure which you have: a rangetop has a raised back and front-panel controls; a cooktop is flush with the counter. What goes wrong Stiff dials, the maker’s most-linked cooktop complaint, and a maintenance repair. Ignition on gas: no spark, spark without flame, or a flame that will not hold at low. Induction zones cutting out, which is usually cooling and installation rather than the coil. Touch controls not responding — wet fingers, a lock, or the control itself. Cracked glass, which on induction and radiant surfaces is a replacement rather than a repair, and which the maker treats as a safety matter: stop using the cooktop. Fan noise, which on an induction machine is the cooling fan and is a sign worth listening to. What this maker does not publish for a cooktop A code table. Not one of the forty-six user guides carries a chapter of cooktop codes — the induction guides say the cooktop “displays an error code” and to give it to a technician, and stop there. The families above come from the maker’s support articles rather than its guides. Anyone offering you a full Fisher & Paykel cooktop code list is not reading it off the maker’s own paper. ### My dials have become hard to turn. This is the maker's most-linked cooktop article by a distance, and it is a maintenance problem far more often than a broken one. The valve stems under the dials carry a grease that stiffens when cooking residue works past the seal, which in a kitchen that cooks daily takes a few years. It is a repair we do regularly and it is not an alarming one. What it is worth doing meanwhile is not forcing a stiff dial — a snapped stem is a much bigger job than a stiff one. ### One induction zone stops mid-cook and the others are fine. That is heat, not the coil, in most cases. Each induction position has a power board under it, those boards make heat of their own, and they are cooled by a fan pulling air through the cabinet. In a sealed island in a Miami kitchen there is often nowhere for that air to come from. Check that the cabinet has the ventilation the installation instructions asked for, that nothing is stored tight underneath, and whether the same zone fails with a different pan. If it happens on one zone with everything clear, that zone's board or its sensor is the repair. ### What does an Er code on an induction cooktop mean? The maker groups them rather than publishing one meaning per number: Er03, Er22 and Er31 are control panel; Er47, EA and E9 are communication or sensor; E2, E6, U400 and E8 are temperature or power; Er20, E4 and AE0 are internal. Its instruction for all of them is the same — power off at the supply, wait a minute, restart, and book a repair if it returns. A plain E or Er with nothing after it is a different thing again: the electronics have overheated and shut down, which is usually about airflow around the installation. ### Ignitors click but the burner will not light. Sparking means the ignition side is alive, so the problem is gas reaching the burner or the burner itself. In order of likelihood: a cap or crown seated wrong after cleaning, ports blocked, moisture in the burner after a spill or a wash, and only then the valve. A burner that has just been cleaned and will not light is the commonest version of this call and usually the quickest to put right. ### What is a teppanyaki cooktop, and can it be repaired? A flat, thick metal cooking plate heated from below rather than a set of burners or zones — this maker builds two of them as auxiliary units meant to sit beside a main cooktop. They are repaired like an electric cooking surface: element, sensor, control. What is specific to them is that the plate itself is the cooking surface, so scratches, warping and discoloration are cosmetic questions with real answers rather than repairs, and we will tell you plainly which side of that line yours is on. --- **[Read full article: Cooktops and rangetops](https://fisherpaykelmiami.support/appliances/cooktop/)**